Những tương đồng thú vị trên con đường cách tân của hanbok Hàn Quốc và áo dài Việt Nam

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YMCONLINE.VN – Những Tết gần đây, sự xuất hiện của áo dài cách tân đã mang đến một luồng gió mới cho thời trang đón xuân của mọi người. Tuy nhiên, cách tân trang phục truyền thống không phải là một xu hướng lạ, bởi hanbok Hàn Quốc đã và đang trên hành trình đổi mới trước chúng ta vài chục năm. Có những điểm tương đồng nào mà cả 2 loại trang phục quốc hồn quốc túy đều gặp phải trong quá trình cách tân chính bản thân mình?

Nỗ lực cải tiến trang phục truyền thống quốc gia

Áo dài và Hanbok đều là những trang phục mang vẻ đẹp và văn hóa mỗi quốc gia tồn tại qua thời gian. Bằng chứng là có rất nhiều buổi trình diễn thời trang về 2 trang phục này trên trường quốc tế. Tuy nhiên, dưới áp lực từ làn sóng phương Tây và nỗi lo mai một văn hóa, cả 2 đã cùng đổi mình cho phù hợp với cuộc sống hiện đại.

Điểm cốt lõi là làm cho các trang phục này ngắn hơn. Đối với áo dài, thế chỗ cho chiếc quần ống rộng thướt tha là chiếc quần bó hiện đại, quần culottes hoặc váy ngắn ngang đầu gối. Với hanbok, các nhà thiết kế cũng sẽ cắt ngắn độ dài và giảm độ phồng của chiếc váy dưới. Tất cả nhằm giúp trang phục thuận tiện hơn trong đời sống hàng ngày.

Phần váy của hanbok được rút ngắn

Bên cạnh đó, những phần tay áo, vạt trước, vạt sau cũng đều được điều chỉnh để dễ dàng chuyển động, giảm thời gian mặc vào. Hàng khuy từ cổ đến eo của áo dài biến mất, còn chiếc nơ thắt dài to bản của hanbok thì được thay thế bằng nơ thắt sẵn có nút bấm.

Áo dài được mix với quần ống bó

Chất liệu của cả hai cũng đều được thay đổi đa dạng, sao cho vừa tôn lên được vẻ đẹp của trang phục,vừa dễ dàng làm sạch và cất giữ như: gấm, lụa, voan, ren,… Các chi tiết hiện đại cũng được sử dụng linh hoạt như: hoa văn, kẻ sọc, chấm bi,… chứ không bó hẹp ở một số hoa văn truyền thống như cũ.

Những ý kiến trái chiều

Tuy được đón nhận khá rộng rãi nhưng cũng không ít ý kiến trái chiều về những cách tân của trang phục truyền thống. Đa số những người không ủng hộ đều cho rằng việc cách tân này đang làm mất đi những giá trị cốt lõi của cả 2 loại trang phục.

Về phần áo dài, những thay đổi hoàn toàn khác lạ khiến khá nhiều người không đồng tình. NTK Minh Hạnh từng nêu quan điểm: “Đối với tôi, tôi tôn trọng mọi ý thích của người tiêu dùng nhưng không thể gọi đó là Áo dài bởi vì sự kết hợp này đã phá vỡ đường nét cơ bản của Áo dài. Đừng đánh tráo quan điểm của sự tiện dụng để tạo ra những hình ảnh rất “ngây ngô, nông cạn”. Thậm chí có người còn nặng lời, gọi đây là kiểu kết hợp “ca cao pha mắm tôm” và cho rằng kiểu trang phục này không khác gì bộ sườn xám của Trung Quốc, đánh mất hoàn toàn những đặc điểm của áo dài.

Những cách kết hợp áo dài gây tranh cãi

Hanbok thời kì đầu đổi mới cũng hứng chịu không ít gạch đá hơn. Rất nhiều ý kiến của cư dân mạng cho rằng: “Loại trang phục hiện đại này tuy thuận tiện nhưng không được gọi là hanbok. Chúng không truyền tải được những truyền thống của hanbok nguyên bản.”

“Không thể gọi đây là hanbok”

Hướng đi nào cho trang phục cách tân?

Tuy vẫn có rất nhiều ý kiến xung quanh vấn đề tên gọi hay giá trị văn hóa, nhưng áo dài, hanbok cách tân vẫn rất đang phổ biến trên thị trường bởi tính ứng dụng của nó. Như áo dài cách tân vẫn được ưu tiên lựa chọn trong những dịp tết đến xuân về, hoặc hanbok cách tân thì thậm chí còn trở thành những trang phục thường ngày của người dân Hàn Quốc.

Chất liệu sử dụng đa dạng hơn

Thậm chí gần đây, công chúng còn được chứng kiến một sự kết hợp hoàn toàn mới lạ giữa áo dài và hanbok trong dự án Nàng thơ xứ Huế. Sự kết hợp những tinh túy của cả hai bộ trang phục dân tộc nhằm tôn vinh văn hóa của hai quốc gia tuy độc đáo nhưng vẫn vấp phải ý kiến chỉ trích từ nhiều phía. Bởi vậy mới nói, cách tân trang phục truyền thống quả thực không phải là một con đường dễ dàng, nhất là những trang phục đã có những ấn tượng hằn sâu vào nếp suy nghĩ của người dân mỗi quốc gia.

Sự kết hợp giữa áo dài và hanbok

Đứng trước hiệu ứng đặc biệt của các trang phục cách tân, làm thế nào để bảo tồn vẻ đẹp truyền thống vẫn là một câu hỏi lớn. Chúng ta có niềm tin rằng những NTK thời trang tâm huyết với văn hóa dân tộc vẫn đang hằng ngày lao động để có thể biến những trang phục truyền thống vừa trở nên hợp thời vừa giữ nguyên giá trị thẩm mĩ cao. “Bằng những biến đổi về kiểu dáng, tà vạt,… các nhà thiết kế nổi tiếng như Minh Hạnh, Công Trí, Thủy Nguyễn đều có sự sáng tạo mới mẻ với áo dài” – MC Phan Anh từng chia sẻ. Tuy nhiên sự sáng tạo này bao giờ mới đuổi kịp được nhu cầu thị trường vẫn là một câu hỏi mà chúng ta đặt hi vọng vào những tài năng thời trang hiện tại và tương lai.

Các NTK tâm huyết vẫn đang tìm hiểu con đường sáng tạo cho áo dài

Rất nhiều nỗ lực đã được thực hiện nhằm mang đến hơi thở hiện đại cho những trang phục truyền thống dân tộc như áo dài hay hanbok. Tuy vấp phải nhiều ý kiến trái chiều nhưng không thể phủ nhận những cách tân này đã đem văn hóa đến gần hơn với cuộc sống. Hi vọng trong tương lai sẽ còn nhiều sự sáng tạo hơn nữa để trang phục truyền thống cách tân thực sự làm hài lòng các yếu tố văn hóa, thời trang và thị trường.

Nguồn ảnh: Internet

Phương Thảo

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