Phố Hàng Giầy không lạnh nữa, vì quán bánh trôi bác Phạm Bằng đã mở lại rồi!

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YMCONLINE.VN – Vừa qua đợt rét, người Hà Nội rủ nhau đến phố Hàng Giầy. Người ta ăn mặc phong phanh để đến với một con phố nhỏ. Người ta chen nhau để mua suất bánh trôi 20 nghìn. Và người ta biết, ở Hàng Giầy, mùa đông đã không còn lạnh.

Bánh trôi Phạm Bằng, sau 5-6 năm đóng cửa, cuối cùng cũng mở lại. Xưa, có bánh trôi dọc phố Tạ Hiện kéo đến Hàng Giầy – nay, có những gánh hàng rong dọc vài nếp nhà, có con phố Tây nườm nượp khách tứ phương… Nhưng dường như, đâu đó vẫn thiếu vài nét cổ xưa.

Phố Hàng Giầy từ lâu đã vắng bóng một thức quà quen thuộc, giản đơn mà vẫn khiến lòng người ấm sực.

Để rồi vài ngày trước, người ta nghe phong thanh thông tin quán bánh trôi bác Phạm Bằng mở lại. Chẳng cần đội ngũ PR hùng hậu hay chạy ads quảng cáo như những quán ăn vặt khác, sự trở lại của quán chỉ đơn thuần như dăm tờ ô li dán lại bằng băng dính cho thành khổ giấy lớn. Trên đó, vài dòng chữ được ghi bằng bút phoóc giản dị: “Kính báo. Bánh Trôi Bác Phạm Bằng. Mở hàng 28-11-2017. Trân trọng kính mời.”

Vẫn là không gian tất bật đầy hoài niệm

Tôi đến quán từ 14 giờ 54 phút. Quán chính thức bắt đầu phục vụ lúc 15 giờ 30 phút.

Nhận được cái gật đầu cho câu hỏi: “Em để xe bên đường rồi vào ngồi đợi được không?” từ chú chủ quán con bác Phạm Bằng, tôi ngồi xuống chiếc ghế nhựa say sưa chụp ảnh. Tôi không phải người Hà Nội, cũng chưa từng nghe danh quán. Nhưng nhìn cách bài trí đơn giản, bàn ghế giống những quán chợ cóc, vài tiếng gọi nhau í ới cho công cuộc chuẩn bị, tôi tự xác nhận với mình một điều.

Rõ ràng, không gian nơi đây trước kia vẫn vậy. Thay đổi vài bức tranh, vẽ lại mảng màu tường cũ, dọn dẹp khang trang hơn, biển hiệu thắp đèn sáng. Tất cả, dù có mới mẻ và hiện đại hơn so với những năm 2010, cũng vẫn vẹn nguyên. Như công thức bánh trôi tàu xa xưa giữa phố Hàng Giầy.

Tôi hình dung 6-7 năm về trước, cũng vẫn là những con người này, tại góc phố quen thuộc của Hà Nội này. Chủ quán sẽ chạy qua chạy lại, bưng đồ, rót nước sôi, vớt bánh trôi, đảo chí mà phù, trộn lục tàu xá,…, các thực khách sẽ kiên nhẫn xếp hàng. Họ đến từ Hà Đông, từ Long Biên, từ Cầu Giấy. Họ sẵn sàng đứng đợi cả tiếng đồng hồ chỉ để thưởng thức món bánh trôi truyền thống.

Cô Liên (quận Cầu Giấy, Hà Nội), chia sẻ: “Cô ăn bánh nhà bác Phạm Bằng từ rất lâu rồi. Mặc dù không thực sự thích, nhưng ghé qua đây để mua cho gia đình giống một thói quen cũ của dăm bảy năm về trước. Hôm nay, cô đã đợi được tròn 1 tiếng.”

Hương ngọt tròn đầy sưởi ấm mùa đông

Những chiếc bánh trôi thơm sực mùi dừa, cái mùi hương đặc trưng của thập kỉ cũ, khiến ai đó qua đường phải nán lại. Không vì tò mò tại sao đông người đến vậy, cũng vì chẳng cưỡng nổi sức quyến rũ đến nao lòng của bánh trôi.

Ở quán bác Phạm Bằng, cả ba món trong thực đơn là bánh trôi tàu, lục tàu xá và chí mà phù đều đồng giá 20 nghìn đồng. Bạn từ phương xa đến có thể chê rằng, tại sao chỉ hai miếng bánh trôi nhân dừa và vừng lại có giá cao như vậy. Và người Hà Nội sẽ cười bạn. Vì ở Hà Nội là vậy. Người ta sẵn sàng bỏ tiền túi ra để mua một món ăn đậm chất cổ truyền.

Bạn sẽ lại cười, vậy thì sao cứ trách móc giới trẻ tiêu tốn 50-60 nghìn cho một cốc trà sữa “thượng hạng”? Và người Hà Nội, bỗng dưng sẽ lại cười to hơn. Họ không trách tư duy bạn bề mặt và xốc nổi. Người Hà Nội, cười và khoan khoái với thứ gọi là khoảng cách thế hệ.

Ấy nhưng, vẫn có những con người của thế kỉ 20 cố gắng nối gần khoảng cách, để đời sau của họ hiểu cái đẹp của ngày xưa. Bố Minh Phương (Đại học Luật Hà Nội), chở con gái trên chiếc xe 81, đến số 30 Hàng Giầy, đứng đợi cả buổi chiều để mua bánh. “Bác ăn ở đây từ hồi chưa giải phóng miền Nam. Lúc đó, người Hoa làm bánh rồi bán ở Tạ Hiện. Gia đình anh Phạm Bằng làm bác ăn không quen. Không quen nhưng vẫn muốn con gái ăn để thấm thía mùi vị phố cổ của thế kỉ trước.”

Bố của Minh Phương chở con gái đi trên chiếc xe Tám Mốt cũ để đến với số 30 Hàng Giầy.

Rất nhiều bạn trẻ quay trở lại quán bánh trôi bác Phạm Bằng để thử ăn lại thức quà ngon ngọt hồi bé. “Mình thích lục và chí hơn trôi. Hồi lớp 7 được nghỉ hè, bố mẹ dẫn mình đến ăn và nhớ mãi. Bây giờ tuy hương vị không giống như xưa, ngọt hơn khá nhiều, mình vẫn muốn cùng bố mẹ đi ăn giống ngày nhỏ.” – Quế Phương (Đại học Kinh tế quốc dân) kể chuyện.

Quế Phương (phải) dẫn bạn thân đi ăn lục và chí nhân ngày gió ấm.

Ngọt hơn về mùi vị. Khang trang hơn trong khâu trang trí. Hiện đại hơn từ những chiếc bếp. Dẫu đổi khác và biến chuyển, quán bánh trôi cố nghệ sĩ Phạm Bằng vẫn sẽ là một điểm đến lý tưởng dành cho những ai yêu và muốn níu giữ một chút Hà Nội xưa. Mùa đông ở đâu cũng vậy, chỉ cần ngồi bên nhau ăn thức quà ấm nóng, nói những chuyện xưa cũ. Thế là đủ.

Ảnh và bài viết: Kim Hòa – Bùi Giang

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